From Chuen Lung to Kap Lung

Liu Ka-Shiang

Looking at the Hong Kong map today, one can see Route Twisk to the west of Tai Mo Shan, being a freeway winding through the hills. One cannot help but wonder however – how do villagers of Pat Heung in the north make their land-locked travel on foot to Tsuen Wan in the south in the old days?

Unfortunately, the well-developed roads and transport of modern days has caused the obliteration of many old trails, especially to trails on flat lands. For example, the foot trail from Chuen Lung to Tsuen Kam Au has either vanished or it is undiscovered yet. Only the trail known as Kap Lung Ancient Trail which runs from Tsuen Kam Au to Lui Kung Tin remains and is kept intact.

At 200 metres above sea level, Chuen Lung is a Hakka village built in a gorge, and many of the villagers belong to the Tsang clan. Farm ponds here produce watercress of excellent quality, due to the cool and clean water, always moving, flowing down from Tai Mo Shan.

These days, from Chuen Lung one enters the mountains, using a Family Walk trail which connects to Tsuen Kam Au, taking about an hour’s hike. Along the trail there are signs introducing the important plants and animals here. Halfway, there are open high grounds, where one can look back to get a good view of Tsuen Wan’s town and shoreline.

After passing the barbeque pits, one uses the paved road towards Tsuen Kam Au. Here is the intersection for many mountains trails, including MacLehose Trail, Tai Lam Forest Track, Kap Lung Forest Trail and Tai Mo Shan Road. The concentration of hiker trails in the countryside fully demonstrates Hong Kong to be a green city.

Prior to the construction of Route Twisk, farmers of Pat Heung, Lui Kung Tin and Shek Kong would carry their farm produce to the markets in Tsuen Wan to sell, always passing through Tsuen Kam Au, going downhill or uphill. Kap Lung Ancient Trail, which connects Tsuen Kam Au to the north, would be a crucial trail for villagers.

The most mesmerising part about Kap Lung Ancient Trail is the granite-paved path which runs parallel to the stream, or sometimes intersecting with it, or hugging closely to the vertical mountain cliffs at various points. The road is 2 kilometres long and despite its age, the granite steps are still in good condition, making a graceful slender ribbon-like descent.

Like Chuen Lung Stream, the Ancient Trail is also an important spot in Hong Kong for watching butterflies, since the woods here are lush and green, while the streams run along merrily, making an excellent habitat for butterflies. Passing by some tall Eucalyptus and Brisbane Box trees, one is wrapped in a secondary forest with Psychotria and other bushes. The simple looks of the forest and the cool temperature makes it easy for hikers to mistake the place as some woods in Central Europe and not the countryside of a tropical city. Through the forest and descending, one follows the catchwater trail and reaches the quiet army base and the village of Lui Kung Tin, equally serene. Not too faraway, Kwun Yam Shan stands tall like as a goddess, a mountain guarding these Pat Heung farmlands.

Brief introduction of Liu Ka-shiang
Born in 1957, Mr Liu Ka-shiang is a writer and environmental conservationist. He has worked in the newspaper sector for many years. In the early days, his writings were mostly proses based on the ecology of birds and were a pioneer of Taiwan’s writings with a touch of natural environment atmosphere. The scope of his works is broad and they range from narratives of geographical history to the studies of insects and plants. In recent publications, Mr Liu focuses on ecotourism and writes about old tracks, wild herbs, vegetables, and fruits, as well as the history behind them. Furthermore, Mr Liu have also been leading undergraduates from universities of Hong Kong and Taiwan into the rural and countryside, allowing them to learn more about these exotic places.

Mr Liu have published more than thirty works—from poetry, prose, novels, to travel guides and is a recipient of numerous awards, including China Times New Poetry Award, Taiwan Poetry Award, Wu Sanlian Award, Wu Luqin Award, and Taiwan Conservation Award for example.